NZ commentary by Liz

Here is Liz's description of her New Zealand experience. I wanted to post it because it is a more balanced and descriptive take than my rants and whines.

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"NZ has taken up tourism in a big way. Their are positive aspects of this and many negative aspects, I feel. Among the positive aspects: The intercity bus system is comfortable, efficient, reliable, easy, and cooperative with one's particular needs, e.g. the bus drops you off near to your place of accommodation. One does not need to rent a car because there is public transportation to almost anywhere a regular tourist would want to go. ("regular tourist" being one who wants to see what the tourbook advises.) There is a huge number and variety of "backpacker" lodgings everywhere, not just in big cities. We found that most of them are perfectly adequate, some are really nice and one was a total dive.

The negatives are that all the tourist destinations feel very commercialized. There are multiple posters and pamphlets and exhortations advertising the bus or shuttle tour. It is all very competitive, so what is promised in order to get the booking is not always what is delivered. Suits for personal liability are not permitted so the advertised feature is not necessary safe to do. I suppose that is why there are five or six outfits for each dangerous activity, offering bungy jumping or tandem parachuting or rafting down huge rapids or parasailing or rock-climbing down a waterfall. Anyone can open a business without liability and without insurance. Kind of scary. And annoyingly testosterone-laden. Which goes with the binge-drinking which happens before and after the spine-tingle.

NZ is a country that I should have visited when I was 20-30 years old. EVERY part of the country has multiple well-maintained and publicized hikes of all different lengths. We did not find the descriptions entirely accurate.

NZ is very beautiful with dramatic and arrestingly beautiful sights - mountains, seashores, rolling pasture lands, more mountains. You almost get tired of trying to appreciate all that beauty The most beautiful drive, for me, was relatively unpublicized - from Franz Joseph down to Queenstown. The alledged "most beautiful train ride in the world" from Christchurch to Greymouth, was disappointing.

I liked Christchurch - particularly enjoyed the Art Centre - full of shops of beautiful crafts. We went on Saturday when there is also a craft show outside in the courtyard. Pretty gardens.

I liked Nelson for its weather and its beach and a fun wine tour that we did there. The downtown streets are fun to walk and shop.

I liked Napier for its architecture. The city was razed by an earthquake in 1931 and was rebuilt in the style that was au courant at that time - Art Deco. Since then it has been remarkable well preserved. Much of the tin ceilings and the leaded stained glass windows and the geometric tile patterns are still there. I attended the only live ballet that I have ever seen there - The Russian Imperial Ballet doing Romeo and Juliette - in the gorgeous Art Deco theatre. It also has a long beach to walk or bike along - but not to swim.

The two best beaches are Mt Maunganui (- watch the surfers) and Matarangi, about a mile of white sand with moderate waves, which we had all to ourselves.

We went to Coramandel Peninsula because the guidebook made it sound like Provincetown - many artists and artisans, lovely beaches, "interesting" alternative types - NOT. I can see why Paihia is a summer tourist destination but it ain't P'town.
It has the best hostel - Captain Bob's. We had a fabulous, sunny but not too hot day cruise with Capt Mike and about ten paying customers- sailing around, stopped to snorkel and swim and kayak, were fed snacks as well as lunch, went searching for dolphins, Terri caught two big fish off the back. Capt Mike told us that Fiji is fabulous and that Vanuatu is not - and I would believe him.

So, that's my input on NZ. I hope that you have a good time. Take your woolies and rain gear. That west coast of the South Island is wet and cold.

We are back in Australia, and glad to be here. We are in Canberra, the capital of Australia, for the next ten days. Canberra is in the middle of a drought - which is nice after New Zealand! (how cavalier of me. I guess that I should be praying that they do not have a huge brush fire like the one that destroyed 1/4 of the city in 2003.) We are volunteering at the National Folk Festival. I have been trained and will start my "work" tomorrow. "